How to Seal a Bathtub and Shower: (7 Easy Steps) (2023)

You must be wondering how to do this, right?

But do not worry!

I'm going to demonstrate a simple, quick and effective way to caulk a shower and bathtub like a pro. And this includes a complete video tutorial of the practical work.

In this article, you will find the simple steps to follow to caulk your shower door, frame, shower stall, sink, tray, drain, wall, tile and bathtub grout, etc.

So even if your shower tray or frame is already caulked, you'll have to do it again at some point. And this guide is packed with essential information to help you learn how to recaulk your shower head.

Stick with me and I'll entrust you with my deep investigative knowledge.

Most important, however, is ensuring that the correct grouting product and caulking gun have been selected.

Because in the market you can find different types of cartridges and cartridge pistols and if you don't know which one is the best, that's a problem for you. For example, there are silicone-based and silicone-free sealants on the market, and silicone-based sealants are comparatively better.

For the shower and bathtub, choose the type of caulk that contains mold and mildew inhibitors.

I also did some research on this topic and checked the following:

• high quality puttywith a custom color.
• And the cartridge weapons you can easily use.

Well, back to our topic.

shower caulking tools

For this procedure, here are the materials I chose to make the whole process quick and effective:

1. Blade Scraper/Utility Knife.
2. Liquid limescale remover.
3. Cloth wiper/vacuum cleaner.
4. paper towels.
5. Film.
6. 100% silicone sealant or latex sealant.
7. And cartridge gun.

You can opt for turpentine/liquid gasket remover if your old gasket is silicone based, or even use isopropyl alcohol, but this is not necessary for latex gaskets, which can be easily removed with soap and water.

Steps to caulk around a shower and bathtub

Step 1: Remove Old Pasta

This is easy and all it takes is a putty removal tool, in my case the scraper. You can also use the knife to remove the caulking. But if you do this to the shower door and shower stall, be careful not to scratch them.

Old grout can have a moldy surface that isn't good enough for new grout to hold strong. Silicone seals in particular are not compatible with this. And remember that a clean, dry surface will keep the dough better and longer.

Therefore, it is important to remove the old one first.

If the seal seems difficult to remove, use liquid seal remover. This is very effective and speeds up the process by softening the old caulking.Need help choosing the right liquid grout remover?

Liquid limescale remover with:

1. Cover the old caulk and apply liquid caulk remover.
2. Give yourself some time to allow the remover to take effect.
3. Now attach the scraper blade and completely scrape off the old grout.

Let's take a look at practical work. Play the following video:

Step 2 - Clean the surface

Has the old seal been removed?

Very good, follow me closely. Now wipe the surfaces with a cloth and wipe. You can use liquid soap to wash or a vacuum cleaner to vacuum the area.

Why is it important?

By vacuuming the area, you can remove any grout left on the surface.

Step 3 - Let it dry

You are 50% done.

Use a paper towel to absorb as much water from the surface as possible. Still, critical gaps contain a few drops of water.

Therefore, leave the shower unused for at least 8/12 hours. This is also important as it allows the surface to dry completely which will help the caulk to adhere properly.

Step 4 - Mask the gap between the sealing points

Now that the surface is ready to be caulk, apply masking tape above and below the area you want to caulk, leaving a perfect gap between the two rows of tape.

Using this sticky tape is very helpful for you to seal the exact area. But be careful not to overlap the dough too much on this tape. This technique is good for experts and a little tricky for those who like to do it yourself.

But this results in better caulking than freehand.

Let's take a look at practical work. Play the following video:

Stage 5: Load the caulking gun with caulking

Before starting the process, it is good practice to carry a protective balloon in your hand.

Well, this is where the machine gun comes into play. How it works? Load the cartridge tube into the cartridge gun. It is worth noting that there are different types of caulking tubes and you need to find one that will fit your caulking gun.

Follow these steps to learn how to load putty into a putty gun:

1. Grab the cartridge gun in one hand.
2. Pull back the push rod.
3. You need to pull the plunger back with your other hands.
4. Then slide the bottom of the seal tube into the gun.
5. Snap the plunger rod back into place.
6. Cut the end of the caulking tube with the knife.
7. Pierce the seal tube joint with a needle.

That's it for the caulking gun charge! Play the instructional video below:

Some tubes will have markings on where to cut, but if not, you'll need to cut the end at 30 or 45 degrees. For a narrow bead application, I advise cutting closer to the tip.

Cutting the edge of the caulk larger than the gaps you are trying to fill will apply more caulk than necessary and make the final cleanup more difficult.

Now remember that whatever tip size you choose, you must use a sharp knife. This way you don't create burrs on the seal tube mouth and this creates a depression in the applied sealant.

Step 6 - Apply the putty

Then place the tube head where you want to seal. Start with the corners and verticals of the sealing points. Now pull the caulking gun trigger and guide the nozzle. Try to create a smooth surface.

Once you are satisfied with the applied and shaped caulk, remove the masking tape while the applied caulk is still dry.

Therefore, it is important not to interrupt too often when applying the filler. Try to apply the grout continuously by pressing the trigger of the caulking gun perfectly.

I mean, you must have an ongoing surface account. You will need to use a caulk bead tool on the caulk layer later.

Or just use your finger to create that smooth surface. This is an easy way to do this without using any modeling tools.

So what you need to do is.

Wet your thumb with water and run it over the applied caulk to ensure the joint is fully sealed and wipe off excess caulk.

If this trick doesn't work for you, take a small spoon and use the back of it and gently press it onto the grout as this will help smooth out the surface.

Step 7: Final cleaning

Let's be honest!

Final cleaning is primarily for those who sealed the unmasked area with tape. There will be spills and grout that can end up in the wrong places which is why cleaning is essential. After finishing the process, use a sponge to clean around the joint.

Be careful not to remove the putty you just applied.

After completing the caulking process, wait at least 8/12 hours before using the shower. Therefore, you must seal the shower head when you don't need it.

And yes, we finished the process!

Remember, it's best to clean the caulk tube with a damp cloth to prevent any remaining caulk from drying out. This will make it easier to use the dough the next time you need it. I recommend cleaning the seal tube after each use.

Avoid these mistakes when sealing

1. Choosing the wrong dough.
2. Cut the nozzle off the larger tube/tip.
3. Apply the putty to a wet surface.
4. Do not remove old gaskets and mold.
5. Apply the caulk gun trigger randomly.
6. Use a finger/dry object to smooth the surface of the dough.
7. Just use the shaving scraper in the stable or scratching door.
8. Start the bath before the dough is completely dry.

bottom line:So, the above step-by-step guide will help you to caulk a shower and bathtub in a simple and easy process. As long as you have the right tools and sealant, they're a must.

Now you see that suffering and not enjoying bathroom moments is optional due to mold in the shower growing on the old caulking.

I have published this guide from start to finish and provided all the information you need to complete the task. So go ahead and start the process as you know it now.

You can also use the same process to seal your shower door, ledges, cubicles, sinks, counters, drains, walls, tile grout, kitchen and bath edges, etc.

Some important FAQs

Question: Why does my shower need caulking?

Responder:Most of the time, people have been told that this is to improve aesthetics, but there's more to it than that. The seal prevents water from getting behind the cabin or tub.

Because if water seeps out from behind the bathtub or cubicle, it can cause a host of problems like: rot, mold, and can also lead to roof leaks.

Unfortunately, it may take some time before you realize there is a problem before it becomes serious. With that in mind, having good dough and keeping it will be appreciated.

Questions:What are the important places to seal in and around the shower door?

Responder:It is better to close all visible openings and cracks. You can even seal the roof. You don't have to worry about moisture as it can be handled by an exhaust fan and plumbing.

Question: How can I ensure the caulking stays in place and doesn't chip when the walls heat up?

Responder:By the looks of it, the caulked surface must be wet and the best solution would be to remove it and re-caulk.

Question: Should I use silicone or acrylic sealant?

Responder:Well, there is a choice that needs to be made based on everyone's preference. My personal opinion is to opt for silicone sealants as they are much stronger and last a long time.